The 20-seater is not particularly spacious, but the clever use of shiny materials and vertical lines more than compensates. It only opens for dinner with a single tasting menu that changes according to the season (although the ever-popular pâté en croûte remains a firm fixture). The chef’s sauces are second to none and he uses fresh herbs to great effect. In echo of traditional French meals, small cheese bites are served after the main course.